Diary Entries

Day 1 – 28th February 2009

Transporting Horses from Woodend to Providence Portal

Well a 4am start to the day was a rather rude awakening, particularly after heading off to bed around 2am the night before.

Packing went well and all but Matilda floated like a charm. Matilda chucked a diva session and hit her head on the roof of the float and took a while to get on.

The trip up to Providence went well until we got to Talbot Dam and then Toni’s brakes gave out and we ended up having to transport the horses in shifts and then pick up the Bronco the next morning, getting us into Providence at 2am! We didn’t end up having a chance to get lunch or dinner but we did secure a cheese burger in Wangaratta late morning.

1st March 2009

Preparation Day at Providence Portal

Was able to have a good breakfast of scrambled eggs this morning! Spent the day doing last minute sorting, inspecting and making adaptations to gear. Scott says learning leather work is one of the best things he’s ever done!

Great lunch at Adaminabye – one last steak before the trail! Great town!

The people at Providence Caravan Park have been amazing, setting up water troughs and fencing for us, and giving us a shortcut across the dry lake.

2nd March 2009

Providence – Happy Jacks Plain

Ok, so we aimed to leave at 9am and finally got away at 11:30am, but due to an alternative route we weren’t as screwed as we thought we could have been. Amazing scenery with meadow lands and plains lightly scattered with trees. Some of the instructions on the trail guide didn’t add up and we missed Grey Mares Track, but made it to Happy Jack’s Plain in the end. Couldn’t camp on the river due to a lack of trees for night lining, but found a great spot off the road a beautiful patch of trees with a magnificent view for our first night. Army rations for dinner – spaghetti not so great…lamb quite good!

3rd March 2009

Happy Jacks Plain to Manjar Fire Track

Woke up to a drizzly morning took a while to pack up camp and get going…woke up at 6:30am and got away at 10am. The pack saddle is quite a bugger to balance. Gave the horses a good water and headed off through the beautiful Happy Jacks Plains, there must be thousands of acres of grasslands up here. Climed over the top of many mountains throughout the day, with some spectacular views. Real ‘Man from Snowy River’ country. You can understand why they drove cattle up here, plenty of water and grass.

Started to see signs of wild brumbies today with dung piles along the road, quite old though. Past two nice little huts and signed our names in the visitors log.

General, our main pack horse, has been a real bastard to lead today as he prefers a nice dawdle over a descent walking pace. Found a nice camp on a hill off the road and managed to set up camp before dark.

4th March 2009

Rest Day at Manjar Fire Track

Nice relaxing day! Set up some electric fencing and gave the horses the day in there. They loved rolling around and running in the grass. Had a coffee for the first time in a while…so good!Had a wash in the stream and experienced new levels of cold. I’m sure the horses were laughing at us!  Made damper and had a good feed and general R&R day. Such a magnificent spot. One thing though is that the weather up here can change from sunburn hot to snow cold in a matter of minutes and then back again.

5th March 2009

Jagumba Station

Sooooooooo cold! Sleeping bag did little for the cold last night. Cal had all his clothes on in his sleeping bag and was still freezing! Once we started to pack we warmed up and the worst of the cold was gone by the time we set off. Made really good time today and started to leave the plains behind and drop some altitude.

Saw two wild brumbies!!!!!!!! Absolutely beautiful animals, in great condition. They looked like stock horses and both were black with white stars. Not very timed as they took a bit to shoe away as they were blocking the road. Stopped at the fire tower look out where we were fortunate enough to meet the summer attendant who let us go up into the tower for some photos.

After a very steep and painful decent down the mountain we arrived at Jugumba Farm where the owner Barry Paton very graciously allows riders to pass through his property.We also saw a wild dog today, black and about the size of a kelpie. Not much feed about but great views and good water supply.

6th March 2009

Jagumba to Yellow Bog Creek

Had a good chat to Barry before we left. He’s a very knowledgeable man and obviously a good horseman. He has done a lot of trekking and often competes in the Man from Snowy River challenge, he’s won the event and become finalist on a number of occasions. We set off and after a short ride came across a great little water hole that we thought would be perfect for a wash/swim, as it was a hot morning. Cold is not an appropriate word for the depth of pain, suffering and torment our bodies went through while experiencing this nice leisurely swim in the mountain stream! Our hands were numb within seconds of being in the water and certain boy bits normally found externally on the body suddenly retracted into our chest cavities and refused to come out until we promised never to do anything that stupid again!!!!

We thawed out a little… managed to catch a baby water dragon, took some photos of him and let him go. A rather short but down hill day. Both horses and humans were glad to see camp that afternoon when we arrived about 3pm. Nice grassy clearing by a creek. Hobbled the horses and set up camp.

7th March 2009       —-Cal/Scott version—-

Rest Day at Yellow Bog Creek

Beautiful spot with paddock like meadows across the creek, left over from an old farm complete with ruins of the hut. Set up electric fencing and horses were able to eat all day. Explored the creek and caught two trout for dinner. Great restful day!

8th March 2009

Yellow Bog to Khancoban

Woke up to a chorus of wild dogs howling this morning, chilling yet beautiful at the same time. Long and steep descent into lower country today, both horses and our legs glad when it finally leveled out. Nearly got stuck on a farm we had to cross through as ownership of property had changed and gate was locked! Would have meant an hours back track and an attempt to find an alternate route but luckily the owner saw us and let us through. Finally made it to Khancoban and had a  great welcoming party from Jessica, Jessie, Colin and the 2 dogs.

Managed to get a cabin that night and had our first shower and proper meal in a week at the pub. Washed our clothes (water was black) and had a rest day on the Monday. Overall a good little bit of luxury rest and recuperation!

Took the horses for a swim in the Kancoban lake… much warmer than the mountain streams!

Looking forward to heading off on the next leg of our trip with the girls tomorrow!

Saturday 7th March 2009      —-Jess/Jess version—-

Woodend – Khancoban

Jessie & Jessica got off to a rough start when Archie panicked while floating and bucked continuously until he broke the rear chain holding him in, and got himself free. He then pancked a second time, while Jessie was attempting to calm him in the float and he exited the float head first having done a 180 degree turn inside the float and crushing Jessie’s arm between his rear and the center wall. After a break, a chai latte, some much appreciated physiotherapy advice, two floated horses and an icepack we were finally on our way.

After the rocky start the rest of the trip was uneventful, in comparison… much to our appreciation, although it was a tight squeeze with Moe & Mietta our bulldog and mastiff and all our gear.

We had a lovely time at Khancoban Lakeside Caravan Park, beautiful place with the most helpful and friendly people, all keen to assist and know more about our trip. We were pleased to see Calem & Scott arrive the following day.

http://www.klcr.com.au/

Tuesday 10th March 2009

Khancoban – Keebles Hut

Started our day at 6:30am and appreciated our final shower for possibly the next two to three weeks. Colin made a fantastic ‘big breakfast’ consisting of a scrambled eggs omelet, bacon, toast and orange toast. We had a fairly relaxed morning of getting ready, despite our plans to depart by 9am. After signing the Khancoban BNT logbook and discussing possible improvements to last weeks trek, we saddled and were almost ready to leave by midday. Once the pack saddle was on and Colin was off getting us our final refreshments before departure, a branch fell suddenly on the night line, in which the horses were attached to, spooking Archie causing him to go nuts once again like a bucking bronco, resulting in him tearing down the night line and a tree almost coming with it, bucking the saddle off his back legs, a broken breast plate, strap saddle and saddle bags.

After again taking five to adjust our plans for the day with one less saddle, we settled on Jessie riding Shadrack in the pack saddle and Archie being lead without a load for the day. Colin spent the afternoon looking for a saddler to repair our broken saddle and thanks to the very helpful Tony of Khancoban Caravan Park, eventually found an old saddler Doug, in the mountains with a FWD only driveway. Tony and Colin assisted Doug in repairing the saddle and thoroughly enjoyed their little adventure to find the local.  Meanwhile after a 12:45pm departure we were finally on our way. We had a smooth sailing and good paced ride, which included crossing the Snowy Mountains Hydro-scheme pipes which hummed and bellowed with the sound of rushing water running through the giant pipes. Despite our late start, we made good time and after passing old Gee-Hi hut we were at Keebles Hut by 6pm, with enough time to gather wood and set up the horses before it got dark. We were visited briefly by Colin who delivered the freshly repaired saddle and joined us for a cuppa reliving to us the adventures of his day. We had dinner, a few games of cards, set up beds for the night in the amazing hut and retired for the night after discussing the pros and cons of leaving the doors open, risking possible mauling by wild beasts versus the damaging effects of smoke inhalation with our smoked out hut. Decided on doors closed, windows open.

Wednesday 11th March 2009

Keebles Hut Rest Day

Awoke to foraging noises on our verandah resembling the wild beasts we had feared the night before. Resumed positions with Jessica holding her boot and Scott with his knife ready to ‘stun & stab’, to our surprise and amusement we discovered our intruder was a viligent Calem attending to the horses. After deciding not to ‘stun and stab’ Calem we got up and begun making breakfast. Realising we had no maple syrup for pancakes, we went on a scavenge hut for berries and witnessed a boxing match by the surrounding kangaroos. Scott made a tasty blackberry jam, and we had pancakes, followed by warm fruity mush (also known as muesli, hot water and skim milk powder).

We had a relaxing morning fishing and reading and taking passers-by through our humble abode. Keebles Hut is a magnificent, beautifully placed hut. Built in 1948 from river stones and cast iron, it has a kitchen, awesome dining table and chairs made from nearby trees, an open fire, toilet out the back and store room off the side. Surrounded by magnificent mountain views that reach far beyond the snow line, a river running by and a great amount of feed for the horses and a plethora of grazing kangaroos.

We were joined by some campers in flash camper trailers and Colin for afternoon tea, followed by a swim/wash in the river. Colin came by with excitement to show us he’d purchased a saddle to add to our collection, which he purchased from a lady named Jessie back in Corryong. Jessie and Jessica went for a short ride to test out the new saddle. No fish caught… therefore had dehydrated meal for dinner once again, caught up on our journal writing over a much enjoyed port, which ended in Scott snoring on the bench seat. After a pleasant chat with our new neighbours (minus Scott), we were well and truly ready for bed.

Thursday 12th March 2009

Keebles Hut – Tom Groggin

Awoke to our usual 6:40am alarm and to the sound of mice munching on our supplies and fighting amongst themselves. Attended to our usual morning ritual of feeding and watering the horses, making warm fruity mush (formerly known as muesli) for breakfast and packing up the gear. Colin arrived around 9am and we decided to make him our pack horse for the day, enabling us to rest an extra horse as we tackled The Alpine Way and tonight was our next food drop spot anyway. Had a close call with a ranger who Colin managed to sweet talk, despite having two dogs in a National Park, they did however not leave the car. Had a great sendoff by our neighbours who photographed our departure and wished us well. One of them even followed us for the first few kilometers to photograph us crossing our first water crossing for the day.

We passed Gee-Hi hut and over a great bridge where we were once again photographed and onto The Alpine Way. Great caution was required as we were regularly passed by traffic and there was little space beside the road for us to travel. Most people were great and slowed down for us, all except the local rangers! The ride went smoothly with General keeping his usual 1/2km behind much to Calem’s annoyance. We saw a black snake with a yellow tummy –suspected to be a tiger snake on the side of the road. We were pleased the horses didn’t notice and continued on our way. Found a suitable place for lunch off the road, then continued on to camp at the first Tom Groggin campsite, where Colin had set up temporary fencing for the night.

Set up camp, Scott, Jess and Colin went off FWD’ing to assess tomorrow’s route. Jessie thoroughly enjoyed driving the Prado through the water crossing while Jessica and Calem stayed back and enjoyed a very invigorating swim in the Murray river, then proceeded to collect firewood for tonight’s fire. While foraging in the bush we were alerted by the sound of the horses breaking through the un-electrified fence and cantering off down the track back towards The Alpine Way. Calem ran for the horses and Jessica switched her thongs for boots and grabbed some horse leads. Calem managed to run down Matilda and General and Jessica threw him the leads as she took off down the track for the other four missing horses. Ahead the horses had started to slow down and a timely call from Matilda stopped Shadrach in his tracks, he turned back towards the camp and took off thundering his way past Jessica as she jumped off the track as he bolted back to his mistress at full speed. Then much to Jessica’s bemusement the other 3 horses roared past following Shadrach back to camp. Calem rounded each of them up with Jessica blocking the path back to the Alpine Way so there was no changing direction again. Charlie took himself off to the river for a drink, so we decided to offer the other horses a drink, just as Jessie, Scott and Colin pulled up in the Prado. “We found an awesome water crossing” Jessie stated. “We found the horses!” responded Jessica as they begun to notice the demolished fence Colin had made just hours earlier. Calem relived how General and Matilda had bullied Archie into a corner where he had panicked and ran through the fence.

That night we enjoyed dehydrated spaghetti and salami over the camp fire, attended to a few repairs on the pack saddle, and retired to bed in our tents, with the horses night lined rather than fenced! Colin headed back to Khancoban caravan park with no plans to see him again until Omeo, some 2 weeks later.

Friday 13th March

Tom Groggin – Charlie’s Plain Hut

We awoke at 6:30am with the horses all still present and took off by 10:45am for the girls first day without backup. We enjoyed a lovely frolic across paddocks with the local kangaroos, with Calem riding Shadrach, Jessie riding Archie for the first time, Jessica on Trigger and Scott on Matilda. We crossed the Murray River back into Victoria saying goodbye to NSW, it was a wide, beautiful water crossing almost up to Triggers belly. As we crossed the border it started to rain, enough for Cal to put his dryzabone on, but the girls weren’t convinced it would hang around. The girls were right! After a long climb up a steep FWD track, we stopped for lunch on the side of the track, just in time to be passed by four wheel drivers. We spent most of our lunch break herding Shadrach and Charlie away from Trigger as they had discovered he was carrying the horse pellets in his pack. We continued on, the track got steeper and steeper, it was hard work for the horses and we decided to jump off them and walk to make it more achievable for them, having regular stops to catch our breath. Triggers only way up was to canter up and then wait for everyone at the top of each hill. Scott and Jessica, clearly being the less fit of the group found some great rocks to pass out on, until we were disturbed by the four wheel driver’s heading back on their return trip. The three FWD’s stopped and they were all very keen to know our story. They informed us we were around 31/2 kms from Davie’s Plain Hut, our destination for that night, we were very pleased to hear this.  We climbed a few more long and steep mountains until we were well above all the other mountain ranges around, then the track leveled out and the scenery changed. We were on the lookout for brumbies as we’d seen fresh brumby piles for the last few km’s. We’d concluded that the easiest way to lead the pack horses was to not lead them at all, so we had let them go and General entertained us with his attempts to slow the group down. We crossed our final water crossing and 500m beyond the creek we were pleased to see Davie’s Plain Hut, vacant and ready for our invasion. It was a really cute hut which required ducking to get in the door. It had a tack room behind, where we put all our gear, a semi-external fireplace and some much appreciated, large horse yards. Water wasn’t easily accessible near the hut so we decided a trip back to the creek was required. We gathered our horses, helmets and drink bottles and planned to ride bareback down to the creek.

As told by Jessica…..

As the river was around 500m away I fetched my horse Trigger and made my most successful attempt yet at mounting bareback with a swift jump from the ground to land slightly ungracefully but proudly on the back of my horse. With just enough time to get a gratifying smile on my face Trigger took off like a bucking bronco, while I stayed on for a few seconds I had barely achieved my balance and was thrown to the ground where I landed in the left lateral fetal position with throbbing ankles and a throbbing head.

After allowing the throbbing to stop my mates helped me to my feet where I hobbled my way to a park bench located near the hut. I removed my boots and took a pass on collecting the water with the others. As the night went on my left ankle became more and more painful, Scott presented me with a fantastic crutch he’d made from sheepskin and sticks, and we decided we’d wait till tomorrow and see if we thought any further medical attention was required. In the middle of the night I was awoken to the sound of thundering hooves and Scott yelling “brumbies!” Jessie and Scott ran to the door and with a crack of Scott’s stock whip – much to Jessie’s disgust as she hadn’t caught a glimpse of them in the dark, they were off again.

Saturday 14th March

R est day at Davies Plain Hut

After our mid-night excitement it was a long and painful night and between dreaming about broken legs and shattered dreams, at 5am I made a decision that I needed an x-ray. Once everyone awoke and we’d had a delicious breakfast of pancakes on the campfire we attempted to make contact with Colin on our Satellite phone, after waiting for over an hour for a satellite to go over so we could make our call we finally got a brief phone call through to Colin to say I’d hurt my ankle and would require an x-ray.

Three hours later Colin arrived in the Prado with dogs in company after a very steep and adventurous trip up the track we’d followed the day before. The boys used the car to collect more water while I got my things together for a trip to town which called for a fresh pair of underwear. It was a long trip back down the mountains through the Alpine Way and Gee Hi Walls and through to Corryong where Colin had been told there were x-ray facilities. At around 5:15pm we made it to Corryong hospital where I was wheel chaired onto a hospital bed where I could easily have slept after a week of sleeping on concrete and dirt.

There was about an hours wait once in the 2 bedded ED department while a young boy got his leg debrided after coming off his bike. Interestingly while explaining my accident to the nurse, the boys mother chirped up that she had worked for Tom Groggin station herding cattle by horse, up and down the very track we had traveled to get to Davies Plain Hut the previous day. After chuckling away at the boys funny sense of humor while the doctor inserted local anesthetic into his leg, the time had come for my xray.

I was wheeled in on my bed to the next room where x-rays of my foot were taken. From two out of three views a small crack could be seen from the base of my tibia at the joint of the ankle, exactly where I had described the pain to the doctor moments earlier. “Unfortunately you won’t be riding anymore” I was told as the reality of abandoning the trail begin to set in. I called Colin in for the bad news and the doctor showed him my x-rays on the computer. Moments later my leg was being plastered into a backslab, allowing for swelling over the coming days, and I was sized up for crutches. Coincidently one of the nurses assisting was Harry’s wife, Tina, a woman we had met days earlier when seeking an alternate route through the Alpine Way. I was told to get my ankle reviewed in 7-10 days when I would be re-x-rayed and a full cast put on for up to 6 weeks. I was wheeled back to the car where our guard dogs were on high alert and assisted into the car and we made our way into Corryong.

I made a regretful and emotional phonecall to my parents and updated them on the previous 24hrs and how my adventure had come to an end, or so I thought. Colin and I headed for the pub where we savored a barramundi each and I updated each local that went past on how my cast came to be and brainstormed on where we could stay that night. Colin’s plan A was a friend named Ross who we previously knew from the Church in Gisborne who was now the minister at Corryong Baptist Church. So we gave him a call and were very grateful when he offered me accommodation for the night at their place. After finishing our dinner and having an entertaining power blackout we left the pub in full pelting rain, with lightening and thunder surrounding. We made our way to Ross’ place and were greeted with helping hands and an umbrella to get me out of the car.

I gratefully stayed at Ross and Susan’s place and Colin headed back to Khancoban where he spent another night with the dogs in the float.

As told by Scott, Jessie & Calem…..

As we wished Jessica all the best and all hoped she would be back shortly to rejoin the Odyssey journey, Scott, Cal & Jessie had a quiet afternoon. This was interrupted by a thunderstorm resulting in a mad rush to bring everything inside.

We enjoyed our second damper, experimenting with army rations of jam, Vegemite and chocolate. The rain eased and Jessie enjoyed a walk exploring brumby tracks and creeks. No word from Jessica as the satellite phone failed to work in the storm, so we assumed the next day would be another rest day. We played cards and enjoyed a roaring fire as the thunderstorm returned and realised that our limited repertoire of card games was further reduced without Jess. We had an early night, no brumbies.


Sunday 15th March

Davies Plain Hut to Limestone Creek Track via Charlie’s Creek Camp

Arose around 8am to call Jessica and received the extremely disappointing news that she had fractured her tibia and she wouldn’t be rejoining us until Limestone Creek track, our next food drop point by Jessica’s parents Linda and Greg. The thunderstorms had passed and we decided to continue on our despite the late start to the day. While saddling our horses we were joined by three four-wheel-drivers who informed us we had a short day of around 10kms. They watched and helped us for a while then continued on their way.

We left the hut around 12 noon and the four-wheel-drivers were right we arrived only two-hours later. It was a cold day requiring dryzabones. There was some interesting countryside and we felt as though we were riding along the top of the world!

We stopped at Charlie’s Creek camp and a short time later we decided that the horses were restless, it was cold and knowing the next day was a long haul we would try and knock off a few km’s, so we continued on to find another camp. The BNT books were right. It was a steep descent down to the Limestone Track however the horses coped well, with Charlie and General traveling along free. Poor Charlie, we had given him the pack for the day, telling him it was a short day, he did extremely well. There were some awesome views on the trip down overlooking endless mountains. We turned onto Limestone Track around 5:30pm with a creek not far away, however when we got there we discovered no feed for the horses, so we continued on to the next creek. As we approached the creek Cal stopped and pointed, brumbies were ahead. Sure enough we all saw them, a grey, a dun and an older foal. They spotted us quickly and were over the mountain before Jessie could even get a good look. There was still no feed around for the horses so we soldiered on. We repeated this process several times until the decision was made to continue on to Limestone camp where we were due the next evening. It was not an easy task for the horses as they had to canter and jump up the steep four-wheel-drive tracks, gripping on with each leap and then negotiating each step back down the other side of the hills. However the alternate track following the brumby trails could not be found. Calem spotted some Samba deer to add to our sight seeing for the day. It was getting late so we decided we’d go over one more mountain, hoping to find Limestone camping ground. Success! We rode in at about 8pm finally able to set up camp for the night, with feed and water for the horses. We notified Jessica on the Sat phone that we had ridden on to cover two days riding in half a day, the second of which is recommended to do over 2 or 3 days, we don’t however know where one could stop.

Monday 16th March – Wednesday 18th March 2009

Limestone Camp

After reaching Limestone camp a day ahead of schedule we looked forward to a few days of rest with three days now available to us at Limestone Track. We let the horses go free with General and Charlie hobbled to allow them to graze on the river flats. Despite the grass looking impressive, it was mainly tussocks and the horses soon wandered away at their own accord. When they were almost out of sight they decided to run around the next bend and took off. We had to run and fetch them and it was therefore decided that night lining two horses in shifts and allowing the other four to graze was the way to go. This worked well and the other horses never wandered too far from then on. The horses enjoyed the next 3 days grazing and watering at their liberty. The crew spent the time relaxing, reading , eating and enjoying good company. Greg and Linda (Jessica’s parents) arrived on the Monday evening with an assortment of fresh food including fruit, and a wonderful dinner of bacon, eggs, steak, mushrooms and tomatoes. The next few days were spent eating normal non-dehydrated food much to our pleasure. We fished in the river and Scott caught a small trout which was a throw back and a larger brown trout about a foot long which was enjoyed for dinner Tuesday night. Jessica and Colin arrived at camp after dinner on Tuesday with Jessica sporting a set of crutches (not as good as the one Scott made of course!) and her sore paw in a back slab cast. The Crew complete again, enjoyed Wednesday relaxing around camp. 4WD’ing excursions and exploring some nearby caves we some of the activities enjoyed. Over all Limestone Track was a great spot to have a few days off.

Thursday 19th March

Limestone Track to Brumby Hill

After a slow start to the day and pack up taking quite a while longer than normal we headed out of Limestone camp. It was an emotional goodbye to Jessica as we were forced to leave her behind and continue on one crew member down. While on the road we noticed we were being followed by a small tan dog. This same dog had been seen following some riders through our camp a few days prior and they said it had just started to follow them. We assumed it to belong to a farmer who’s property we passed but the dog continued to follow us all day (~30kms). After Jessie & Scott thought of the same name for her she was dubbed ‘Shadow’ with the title ‘The trail dog’ added by Cal. She was a terrier, similar looking to an Irish terrier with a chain around her neck. She wanted to be near us however was extremely timid and wouldn’t let us closer than five or six meters. We spared her some food which she eagerly accepted.

The ride was long and dry with lots of brumby signs and some great views. We pretty much rode along the tops of the mountains all day with only a few steep sections. We found camp at Brumby Hill, which was a beautiful little oasis of green grass and spring water in amongst an otherwise dry forest. We set up camp and we, the horses and Shadow enjoyed the water and sleep after such a long day.

Friday 20th March

Rest Day Brumby Hill

Arose to a spectacular sunny day and spent our rest day doing just that. Resting and reading took up most of our day which was occasionally interrupted by having to retrieve the horses who preferred the tussocks down along the track over the lush green grass at camp. Scott did some exploring before lunch following the flowing spring that led into the dam at camp upstream along the sphagnum grass. Jess did the same after lunch while Scott, followed by Cal went for a swim/bath in the dam. The horses too enjoyed a bath to remove the sweat from yesterdays ride. We phoned John at Bindi Station, where we are headed tomorrow to inform him we’d be passing by.

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